Pheasant Hatching Eggs. . .
Gamebirds can be a nice addition to the homestead. You can buy adult pheasants, or the chicks, to get started.
Another way to get into the business of raising pheasans is hatching the pheasant eggs. Some people think of it as a business, and others consider it the start to a new hobby. This can be fun or it can be a real bummer, depending on how good you are at understanding the right way to raise pheasants.
First you must feed them the right food,
Second they must be in the right environment.
Third, which includes maintaining the correct temperature.
There are a lot of good incubators available that will do an excellent job of hatching ringneck pheasant eggs. Follow the instructions that came with the incubator you bought, to find the right temperature and humidity settings. You may need to experiment to see what works best for you in your area however.
Incubator trays are constructed so that pheasant eggs can be positioned with small end down. There are a some incubators that will allow the pheasant eggs to be placed on their sides, which is the ormal hatching position. There are some breeders who think this increases hatching success.
Ringneck pheasant eggs should be turned at least three times and preferably five times daily. If you have automatic turners, every two hours works well. Temperature readings vary slightly with different types of incubators. Ringneck eggs require from 23 to 24 days to hatch and for the chicks to dry off.
Whatever type of brooder facilities are used, be sure they have been disinfected and dried out. Dry shavings or straw work well because they provide good footing and absorption. Don’t use paper because it’s too slippery. That could result in deformed legs.
The brood area should be sized according to the number of chicks. Day old – 2 weeks .25sq.ft per chick, 3 weeks – 6weeks .75 sq. ft. per chick. Outdoor grow out pens with ground cover should be large enough to provide 15-20 sq. ft. per bird.
Keep the chicks warm. The easiest thing to use is heat lamps. For every 100 chicks you’re raising, at least one 250-watt infrared bulb. Make sure to get a bulb with a red end. That way it isn’t so bright and will help control cannibalism. The bottom of the heat lamp should be about 18 inches from the floor. The temperature at floor level should be 95-100 degrees.
Keep them shielded from drafts the first 5-7 days the pheasants are in the brooder. A circle of cardboard about 14-18 inches high will work fine. A circle with a diameter of 4 feet will be sufficient for 50 chicks (with the heat lamp in the center).
For food, there should be at least one 2 foot long feeder for each 50 chicks and 1 one-gallon waterer for each 75 chicks. Make sure the chicks can’t fall in the trough and drown. If there is too much space, fill it with marbles to keep them out, but still allow them to get to plenty of water.
Until the chicks are six weeks old they should be fed a 28-30% protein medicated gamebird or turkey starter. The feed should be in crumble form. Never use a chicken feed at any stage of development.
This will give you a good start in pheasant hatching eggs.
Golden Pheasant Hatching
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